Ultimate Guide to Perfecting Waterfall Photography

Waterfalls are one of nature’s greatest spectacles and draw crowds of travellers, photographers and dog walkers alike.

You’ve most likely already seen jaw-dropping photos of waterfalls you plan on visiting. You want to walk away with a bag full of spectacular shots to show off to your friends or even put in your photography portfolio. 

But when you start researching how to replicate the photographs you find the information overwhelming and confusing… does this sound familiar?

In this blog, we will explain exactly how to photograph waterfalls and get professional-looking results the first time you try.

We will have you covered from showing up with the right gear to composing a compelling image.

We will even give you tips on getting great-looking photographs with your iPhone. 

This blog will cover:

• Camera gear that you will need for waterfall photography
• The best camera settings to use to take pictures of waterfalls
• Tips on how to create a beautiful composition in your photograph
• Helpful tips on shooting in a wet environment
• The best time of day to photograph waterfalls
• What is the best season for waterfall photography?
• Tips to photograph waterfalls with a drone
• Photographing waterfalls with your iPhone

So if you have been struggling to master waterfall photography, this guide will give you everything you need to know to get out there and take some fantastic waterfall pictures!

Essential Gear for Waterfall Photography

Camera Body

To take amazing waterfall photos you don’t necessarily need the most expensive camera.

However, it is important to use a camera that allows you to change the focal length (has a zoom function) and that you can attach Neutral Density and Polariser filters to. The filters are attached to a screw thread at the end of the camera lens.

You will also need to be able to change the shutter speed.

Whilst it is not essential to have a camera that enables you to change the focal length, not having this capability will limit the diversity of shots you can get.

We use a Sony A7 series camera body which allows us to change the lens giving us the most flexibility in what focal length we can use.

Camera Lens

Camera lenses can completely change the look of a photograph.

Most often we use a 16-35mm wide-angle lens for waterfall photography.

This allows us to include interesting foreground subjects in the image as well as the waterfall.

Many waterfalls are enclosed, so you will need a wide angle to get as much of the waterfall in the photo as possible.

If you don’t have a wide-angle lens then you can still achieve a wide-angle effect by positioning yourself as far back from the waterfall as the environment allows you to.

Many of the photos we take are at the lens’s 16mm wide focal length.

Tripod

Most waterfall photography uses long shutter speeds to show movement in the water and create a dreamy effect.

If you move the camera even by the tiniest fraction while the shutter is open the image will blur. This is why photographers use tripods to stabilise the camera.

Hand-holding a camera means that you can only keep it still enough without making the image blurry at around 1/20th of a second.

However, long-exposure waterfall photography requires shutter speeds from 1/3rd to up to 5 seconds or more.

You can of course still take photos of waterfalls without a tripod. However, you will not be able to capture the flowing water effect that is affiliated with landscape photography.

L Bracket

You need a bracket to attach your camera to the tripod. We recommend using an L bracket to allow you to easily switch from landscape to portrait orientation. 

An L bracket is not essential. You can also use the standard bracket that comes with the tripod you have bought.

We use a very affordable £20 L bracket that we bought from Amazon. We got the cheapest one we could find, it has lasted 5 years and is still going strong.

Neutral Density Filter (ND Filter)

An ND filter is the most important item for capturing silky smooth flowing water and mastering long-exposure waterfall photography.

The less light that can reach the sensor the longer the shutter will have to stay open to correctly expose the image. Keeping the shutter open over a longer period will effectively blur anything that is moving in the image (in our case the flowing water).

So by using a tripod to stabilise the camera, you can keep still objects in the frame sharp and in focus while effectively blurring anything that is moving in the frame i.e the water.

If you want to do this on a bright day, the ambient light conditions will force you to use a fast shutter speed if you have no neutral density filter.

The neutral density filter effectively works as a pair of sunglasses for your camera lens. When you put the neutral density filter on you make the image darker and have to reduce the shutter speed to achieve the correct exposure.

The reduced shutter speed then allows us to achieve that flowing water effect by blurring anything that moves while the shutter is open.

You can either use an adjustable circular type or a square-type ND filter.

We use a 2-400 circular ND filter. This allows us to adjust the level of tint the filter produces by turning the front part. This means we don’t have to change filters to achieve the effect we want which we prefer.

Some people swear by using non-adjustable square-type ND filters. This involves having a square filter holder attached to the front of your lens and trying different types of ND filters until you arrive at the correct level of adjustment.

While square type ND filters are often the better choice for image quality. We just don’t think the compromise of having to carry lots of different types of filters in a large case worthwhile. Especially while travelling and trying to keep the weight of our luggage and daily carry weight down. But this may not be the same for you so if image quality is everything then go for the square-type filters.

Polarising Filter

Before fitting the ND it’s good to use a Polarising filter. These filters cut the glare of bright white areas that reflect off of water and glass.

When it comes to waterfall photography they’re great for allowing you to see what is beneath the water where it would normally reflect the light such as a pool with colourful rocks at the foot of a waterfall.

Remote Shutter Release

When you release your finger from the shutter your camera will shake ever so slightly. With long-exposure photography, the camera needs to be perfectly still to avoid blurriness in the image. A remote shutter release is a device that allows you to take a photo without actually touching the camera.

Instead of using a shutter release, you can also set a timer on the camera. So when you release your finger from the shutter button it will take the photo 2 or 5 seconds later. That window of time should allow the camera enough time to settle and stop moving.

Waterfall Photography Settings

What camera mode to use?

While you can achieve good results in shutter priority mode we highly recommend putting your camera into full manual mode to photograph waterfalls.

Having full control of shutter speed, aperture and ISO will allow you to get the best results. It’s also a great way to start learning and understanding how these settings affect your image.

If you are currently shooting in auto or shutter priority, then don’t be afraid of using manual mode.

Because we are about to tell you exactly what to do!

Which Shutter Speed to use for Waterfall Photography?

To create that dreamy flowing water effect you see in most professional landscape photography you will need to use slow shutter speeds. 

We are predominantly travel photographers but we use this technique in some of our travel landscape photos to stand out from the rest.

Generally, to get a good balance between smooth-flowing water while retaining the detail of all the little splashes, start with a shutter speed of ⅓ of a second.

While there is no “best shutter speed for waterfalls” in most cases 1/3 of a second works 90% of the time.

If you want to create a smoother-looking flow of water reduce the shutter speed accordingly. Some small flows of water will require a shutter speed of around 5 seconds. 

Which Aperture to use?

Generally, in landscape photography, we want to keep every object in the image as sharp as possible. It’s not always the case but for the most part, we can go by this general rule of thumb.

For everything in the image to be sharp, use a narrow aperture. The aperture is also referred to as the Fstop number for your camera lens.

The higher the Fstop number, the narrower the aperture.

To make sure everything is in focus we suggest using an Fstop number around 12. You can, of course, use higher and lower numbers to achieve different creative effects. But this number is a pretty safe bet for most instances. 

Which ISO to use?

The images we take on our cameras contain the most detail when we use ISO 100. Increasing the ISO number will decrease the quality of the image.

Increasing the ISO value can be useful for photographers when high shutter speeds are required to capture fast-moving objects.

But when photographing waterfalls we want to slow down the shutter speed so it’s easy to get the ISO to a low number.

So the best ISO value for waterfall photography is ISO 100 or the lowest ISO you can achieve.

Of course, sometimes you will need to change this value, for instance, if you have some leaves blowing in the foreground and you’re taking a fast exposure so they are not blurred.

Most cameras can take good quality images at ISO values up to 1600. So as long as you’re not going over this number you can expect a high-quality image.

Where to Focus?

A great tip for focusing in landscape photography is to focus on something 2/3rds of the distance into your image. 

For example, if you’re photographing three rocks that are a perfect distance away from each other, as well as the camera and background then focus on the second rock. 

We usually focus on the waterfall itself. In most cases, it will be the focal point of your image. So it’s perfectly reasonable to focus on it. Using this method even if some things in the foreground and background are slightly out of focus you’ve at least got the most important thing correct.

Focus Stacking

Focus stacking is a method used to ensure all parts of a photograph are sharp.

It is an advanced photography technique that involves taking multiple photos (usually 3) while your camera is on a tripod. 

The first shot focuses on the foreground. The second shot focuses on an object halfway into the frame. The Third will focus on the background.

Exposing a Waterfall Photo

Getting the correct exposure can be tricky when photographing waterfalls. The light reflecting off the water is extremely bright. Whereas the rest of the area around the waterfall is dark. 

The most important thing is to not blow out the highlights in the water. Otherwise, at the top part of the waterfall, you get blown-out white patches with no detail. 

Using a method similar to focus stacking, you can take multiple exposures of the same image and blend them together in Photoshop.

Exposure blending thankfully works very well in Photoshop so it’s just a case of selecting all three images and using the photo merge function. This function is now also available in Lightroom.

One of our favourite waterfall photos was taken at the Loup of Fintry waterfall in Stirling, Scotland. The colourful clouds were just a little too bright compared to the waterfall in the foreground so we had to take multiple exposures and blend them into a HDR image in Lightroom to arrive at the image below.

Composition Tips for Waterfall Photography

When it comes to waterfalls a good composition is often what sets apart the professional-looking photos.

We could talk about composition all day but here are just a few tips to get you thinking more about the whole scene than just the waterfall.

Foreground Objects

Foreground objects are fantastic ways of letting the viewer know what kind of environment the waterfall is in.

Does it have a rocky foreground of smooth rocks that have been eroded over millions of years?

Are there any trees that have fallen into the water that help describe the surrounding forest?

You can include These types of things in your photo to build a picture. If there isn’t much to include then try adding a person into the photo to help create some additional interest.

We did this to great effect at the Dolgoch Waterfall on our photography trip in Snowdonia.

(Bonus Tip: Get your subject to wear a brightly coloured raincoat that is a contrasting colour to the surrounding environment)

Leading Lines

You can also look for natural leading lines from fallen trees or a group of rocks to lead the viewer’s eye to the waterfall. This definitely won’t happen at every waterfall but you will be surprised what you find with a little perseverance.

Get in the water

Our best tip for creating unique compositions when it comes to waterfall photography is to get yourself a pair of waders of wellies and get in the water.

You will find much more interesting foregrounds and details within the river/stream itself. But do be careful, we only recommend doing this in slow-moving water that is below waist height.

Leave out the sky

It is often better to not include the sky where possible.

The sky will be very bright compared to the shaded gorge of the waterfall and distract from the main subject of the image.

It’s not always possible to do so, so you will have to include the sky. In this case, try and have as little of the sky in the image as possible without cropping it too close to the top of the waterfall.

7 Tips for Shooting in a Wet Environment

1. Pack a hand towel and a cloth

Water spray is a real issue at some waterfalls. It has on many occasions almost made us want to give up or just settle with an easy composition. But making sure you’re ready for it helps alleviate some of the frustration.

Get up close to a waterfall and you will find that in seconds your camera lens or filter will be covered in tiny drops of water due to the spray coming off the waterfall. This will create spots in your image or even make it completely blurry if there is a lot of spray.

For this reason, bring a hand towel to cover your camera lens while you adjust settings. It will keep the spray off the lens until the moment you want to take the shot.

It’s also important to use a lens cloth to wipe the lens between shooting for those stray drops that get onto it.

2. Pack a poncho

We always bring a poncho to keep our bag and ourselves dry near waterfalls.

You can even take off your backpack while under the poncho and do stuff like swap out lenses even while being battered by the water spray. If you don’t have a hand towel you can also use the poncho to cover your camera in a pinch.

However we don’t recommend doing this where possible as it is not as easy as using a hand towel.

3. Consider timings if you have a model

If you have a model standing in front of the waterfall you will also need to consider how long they will be standing there before getting soaked. In the past we have had to be very quick to get a good shot in before Emma’s hair gets too wet!

4. Pack a raincover

Using a rain cover over your camera is a great idea. Although most cameras are weather-sealed, water spray is one of the most difficult things to seal against. If you don’t have a rain cover to hand a plastic bag works just as well.

Push the lens through a hole in the plastic bag and use an elastic band or hair bobble to secure it to the lens. 

5. Remote shutter

A remote shutter can be another helpful tool so you can take an image as soon as you take the hand towel off the lens which makes the process much faster.

6. Pack your wellies!

Waders and wellies are great for getting into the water when it’s too cold for your bare feet. They can also help you get upstream and closer to the waterfall in some cases. 

7. Don’t forget a dry towel

Be sure to pack a dry towel in your bag. It’s a good idea to dry off your equipment before putting it back in your back.

Keep a towel in a plastic bag to get your equipment back safely. 

The Best Time of Day for Waterfall Photography

For almost all other subjects golden hour is the best time for landscape photography.

As they’re often hidden in a valley or deep in a forest they often don’t receive any light at golden hour. 

For this reason, shooting later in the morning at around (8-10 am) or earlier in the evening (3-5 pm) is better suited for waterfall photography. At these times the sun will be higher in the sky and peering into valleys and forests.

Unfortunately at these times, the light will be quite harsh, making the shadow areas very dark and highlighted areas almost blown out.

This is one of the circumstances where shooting in cloudy or overcast conditions is preferable. 

This isn’t always the case, however, some waterfalls are in places where they receive plenty of golden hour light and in this case, you definitely want to be shooting at golden hour.

For more info on shooting outdoors check out our full guide on the best time to take photos outside.

What is the Best Season for Waterfall Photography?

If you’re in the northern or southern hemisphere and experience Winter, spring, summer and autumn then shooting waterfalls is possible in any season. 

Autumn

Autumn is a fantastic time for waterfall photography as the surrounding area is likely to be surrounded in hues of red, orange and yellow as the leaves change colour.

Overcast conditions are also common in autumn which can be helpful when shooting waterfalls.

Summer

Summer is a great time to shoot with vibrant greens and chances of clear skies to create compelling light in your images. 

Spring

In late spring, you may see blooming trees and spring flowers surrounding waterfalls. These can make beautiful foregrounds and backdrops for your photos.

Early spring is one of the most difficult times as there won’t be much foliage around to take advantage of.

Winter

Winter can be a challenging time to shoot due to the fact any greenery will likely have wilted and died leaving the area looking sparse. But there can be some wonderful benefits like icicles forming on waterfalls and if there is snow then you’re really in for a treat! 

If you live or are traveling to a tropical destination then you have to consider the dry and wet seasons and how these affect waterfalls.

Dry Season

Dry season in some cases can mean that the waterfalls have no water running down them. Which is obviously not going to work.

We usually check the spot on Google Maps or Instagram and filter to the most recent photos to see if there is water.

One benefit of the dry season is that the water is usually clear and looks the most picturesque. For this reason, we preferthe dry season for shooting waterfalls.

Wet Season

The wet season can come with lots of problems. High flows of water will drag earth and mud from up river turning the water into a milky coffee brown colour.

This in our experience never looks good.

Also, the landscape beneath the waterfall will be full of branches and whatever else has been dragged down the river. Not to mention it being dangerous in some countries where heavy rainfall can cause huge swells in the river cutting you off from the way home!

If you’re planning a trip to photograph waterfalls in a tropical country in the wet season we highly recommend contacting a local to check what the waterfall will look like and most importantly whether it is safe.

Photographing Waterfalls with a Drone

We take our DJI Mavic 3 to almost every location, not only can drones help you get a very different photo of a waterfall but they can also help you get a shot that’s just a couple of feet higher than your tripod can extend.

This can often mean you’ve cut out that messy bush in the foreground or just gotten above the wall that’s blocking the basin of the waterfall.

Photographing Waterfalls with Your IPhone

For those of you not ready to invest in an expensive camera or who have forgotten to pack it here is a quick guide to getting good results with just your phone.

• Make sure your phone is stable by either mounting it on a selfie stick with a tripod base or placing it against something. 

• Check that the Live Photo mode is active. This means your phone will take a short video instead of a photo.

• Set a timer or a countdown to take the photo. This is so when you remove your finger after taking the photo you don’t accidentally wobble the phone which can affect the quality of the image. 

• Once the photo is taken go into the photo album and click the live photo button on the top left of the screen. Change the mode to long exposure. 

• Then, your phone will create a long exposure photo for you. It’s very easy and can give great results.

Conclusion

Photographing waterfalls requires more technical skills than other photographic subjects.

But using manual mode to photograph them will not only improve your waterfall shots but also help you understand how different shutter speeds affect your image. 

Ultimately mastering long exposure waterfall photography comes down to understanding what shutter speed you need to use (remember around 1/3rd of a second), how to adjust your camera settings and what gear you need to get your camera to expose the image correctly at the desired shutter speed.

We have given you the knowledge to go out there and take some great waterfall photos.

Some will work and some won’t but that’s what makes photography exciting.

Figuring out where you went wrong and learning new things is how we develop ourselves to become better and ultimately great landscape photographers. 

So don’t be too hard on yourself and have fun out there!