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17 Photography Composition Techniques for Top Travel Photos

BySteffan 1 April 20253 April 2025 Updated on3 April 2025

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Table of Contents

Toggle
  • What is composition in photography?
  • 17 Tips For Better Photography Composition
    • 1. Rule of Thirds
    • 2. Make Sure the Horizon is Level
    • 3. Breathing space
    • 4. Leading Lines
    • 5. Look for Patterns
    • 6. Closeup, Mid & Wide Shot
    • 7. Pay Attention to the Background
    • 8. Framing
    • 9. Symmetry and Reflections
    • 10. Foreground, Midground, and Background Subjects
    • 11. Shooting from Eye Level or a Low Perspective
    • 12. Use a Drone to Get a New Perspective
    • 13. Look for Contrasting Colours
    • 14. Negative space
    • 15. Minimalist compositions
    • 16. Tell a Story with Your Photo
    • 17. What is the Golden Ratio in Photography?
  • Next Steps: Use the Rules of composition and Then Learn When to Break Them
  • Tips to elevate your photography
  • Beautiful Photography Destinations

Are you struggling to figure out what sets apart the amazing photos you see while scrolling through social media feeds and the ones you take on your camera?

Do your photos lack something, but you can’t quite figure out what?

Or maybe you’ve already been researching how to improve your travel photography with composition techniques, but find the rules confusing and contradictory. 

When I first started looking into photography composition techniques, I remember seeing the golden ratio diagram overlaid onto a photo and thinking – what the heck is that supposed to be?

And here’s a secret, I still feel the same way. 

That’s why I’ve written this blog.

I want to give you a real-world guide on composition without throwing a load of confusing 1000-year-old diagrams in your face.

I’m going to tell you exactly what to pay attention to and what to ignore. After reading this you’ll know how to compose better pictures instead of how to conform to rules.

I’ve spent 18 months travelling the world, capturing all kinds of compositions in every situation imaginable. Through real-world experience, not rigid rules, I’ve learned what truly makes an image work.

A few of the photos have even won photography competitions, proving that great composition is about knowing what to look for, not just following a formula!

What is composition in photography?

Composition is how you arrange elements in your frame. Whether you place your subject in the centre or off to the side, you’re making creative choices that shape the final image.

It is equally important whether you’re using a DSLR, Compact Camera or Smartphone.

But unlike camera settings like aperture or shutter speed, there’s no “right” formula for good composition. It’s something you’ll refine over time. Even experienced photographers are always learning and experimenting.

Now, we’ll be honest. There are many different types of composition in photography, and some techniques can feel a bit confusing or overcomplicated.

But a few are genuinely helpful, especially when you’re just getting started. I’ve included some composition tips for beginners and also some more advanced composition tips further on in the article.

17 Tips For Better Photography Composition

1. Rule of Thirds

The rule of thirds is often the first compositional technique photographers learn because it’s simple to understand and easy to apply. 

It works by dividing your photograph into thirds using two horizontal and two vertical lines, creating a grid. By placing your subject at one of the intersecting points or along one of the lines, you naturally create a balanced composition with minimal effort. 

Emma, wearing a red dress, stands near the base of a lush, cascading waterfall, positioned at the lower left intersecting point of the rule of thirds grid to illustrate dynamic subject placement in travel photography. Sunlight streams through the trees, adding a soft, golden glow to the scene.
Emma is standing at in intersecting line using the rule of thirds
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-100, 20mm, f/8, 0.5sec

This technique helps position your subject away from the centre while still leaving enough space from the edge of the frame, preventing the photo from looking awkward or unbalanced.

Another way to use the rule of thirds is by aligning key elements of your composition along the grid lines to create balance. In landscape photography, for example, you generally don’t want the horizon or the sky sitting directly in the middle of the frame, as this often looks static and unappealing. 

Instead, placing the horizon along the upper third of the image creates a more balanced and visually pleasing composition, allowing the foreground to add depth and interest to the scene. 

A scenic landscape of lush green rice terraces with a distant mountain rising in the background, illustrating the rule of thirds by placing the blue sky in the upper third of the frame. The horizon sits along the top grid line, emphasizing the vibrant foreground and layered depth of the scene.
The sky is placed in the upper third of the frame to create this balanced composition
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-200, 30mm, f/8, 1/320sec

Conversely, if the sky is particularly striking, like during a dramatic sunset, you might place the horizon along the lower third to give the sky more emphasis.

Did you know you can view the rule of thirds (grid lines) on your camera? You can do this by going into the camera settings and changing it to show 3×3 grid lines. Below are some links which will tell you how to do this for different camera makes.

How to show the rule of thirds (grid lines) on Sony Cameras

How to show the rule of thirds (grid lines) on Canon Cameras

How to show the rule of thirds (grid lines) on Nikon Cameras

Next time you’re out shooting, switch your camera to manual focus and use a small spot focus positioned in one of the thirds of the frame.

Spend the day composing your shots this way, always placing your subject along one of the thirds. This hands-on approach will help you get a better feel for how the rule of thirds enhances your photos.

Camera screen view showing a waterfall scene with Emma in a red dress, where the focus point is set using a green square at a lower-left intersecting point of the rule of thirds grid. This demonstrates how to place your subject at an interesting focal point directly through the camera’s settings.
An example of how to set your focus point on your camera at an intersecting line of the rule of thirds

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2. Make Sure the Horizon is Level

Nothing screams “inexperienced photographer” quite like a wonky horizon line. It’s an easy mistake to make, especially when you’re focused on other elements in the shot. But once you’re aware of it, it’s just as easy to fix.

A seascape at sunset with a tilted horizon line, labeled with a white “Straight Line” overlay and an arrow pointing to the uneven “Horizon Line,” illustrating how a crooked horizon can make a photo look amateurish. The dramatic sky and ocean waves highlight the importance of level framing in landscape photography.
This brilliantly dramatic photo of a sunset in Mexico is let down by the wonky horizon line
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-125, 35mm, f/14, 0.5sec

The best way to avoid the issue altogether is to make sure the horizon is level in camera. This can be tricky when shooting handheld, especially on uneven surfaces. 

Some cameras have a built-in horizon levelling function that helps by displaying a guide to show when the camera is level, this can be activated in your display settings. 

If you’re using a tripod, check if it has a built-in spirit level. This can help you ensure your setup is level before you take the shot, saving you from needing to correct it in post.

So what if you’ve completely screwed it up in the field and your horizon isn’t level? Don’t worry, because it’s one of the easiest things to fix in your editing software. 

Most modern programs have an automatic straighten function, try this first, as it usually does a good job. However, it’s not always perfect, so you may need to adjust it manually. 

Simply go into crop mode, where a grid will appear, and rotate the image until the horizon sits parallel to one of the grid lines. With a quick fix, you’ll have a more polished and professional-looking photo.

Screenshot of Adobe Lightroom’s Develop module showing the crop tool being used to straighten a tilted horizon in a sunset seascape. A grid overlay and curved arrow emphasize the adjustment, with a labelled arrow pointing to the “Crop Tool” button in the side panel.
Example of using the cropping tool to straighten the horizon in Lightroom

3. Breathing space

One common mistake in early photography is not leaving enough breathing space which is the visual gap between your subject and the edges of the frame.

When this space is too tight, the photo can feel cramped or unintentional, as if the subject was accidentally cut off. It can make an otherwise strong image feel awkward or messy.

Side-by-side comparison of a man in traditional costume aiming a blowpipe, used to illustrate the concept of "breathing space" in composition. The top image feels cramped with the subject close to the frame edge, while the bottom image leaves space around the subject and blowpipe, creating a more balanced and visually pleasing result.
The top image feels cramped and messy where the bottom image has breathing space leading to a more pleasing composition
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-800, 180mm, f/2.8, 1/250sec

The rule of thirds can be a helpful guide here. Placing your subject along one of the grid lines or at an intersecting point naturally leaves some space around them, giving the composition room to breathe. But like most rules in photography, this isn’t a one-size-fits-all solution.

The ideal amount of breathing space is subjective. What feels well-balanced to one viewer might seem too tight or too loose to another. With experience, you’ll start to develop a sense of what works in different situations.

The main thing is to be intentional and give your subject enough room to exist within the frame without feeling squashed, and your photos will instantly feel more polished and thoughtful.


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4. Leading Lines

When someone views your photo, you want to guide their eye through the image, creating a visual journey. This might sound odd, after all, don’t we just look at a photo and take it all in at once? 

Not quite. In a split second, the eye moves through the frame, picking up different elements, and leading lines help direct that movement.

So, what exactly are leading lines in photography?

They can be anything from obvious man-made structures like road markings or fences to natural elements like a winding river or a row of trees. Sometimes, they can be more abstract, like a few flowers lined up in front of a tree, subtly guiding the viewer’s eye toward the subject.

A cobblestone path leads straight through calm water toward a distant island with a castle, demonstrating the use of a strong manmade leading line in photography. A large white arrow overlays the path, guiding the viewer’s eye directly to the subject on the horizon.
The manmade cobblestone path creates a strong leading line to the island on the horizon
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-100, 16mm, f/10.0, 90sec

One common mistake I see, even from experienced photographers, is using leading lines that don’t actually lead anywhere. A classic example is train tracks stretching into the distance, it’s a shot many of us have taken at some point. 

But imagine how much more compelling that same scene would be with a train coming down the tracks or a beautifully detailed Victorian-style station in the background. 

The key is to use leading lines with intent, making sure they direct the viewer’s eye toward something interesting rather than just existing as a pattern in the frame.

Aerial view of vibrant green rice terraces with a winding line of palm trees cutting through the central valley, creating a natural leading line. A white S-curve overlay emphasizes how the trees guide the viewer’s eye through the landscape toward the sunlit horizon.
The palm trees in the centre of the valley create a natural leading line throug hthe image to the bright horizon
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-100 12mm, f/10.0, 1/50sec

5. Look for Patterns

Speaking of patterns, they’re great for compositions. A pattern can be the subject of a photo all on its own, creating striking, repetitive designs that draw the viewer in. Some patterns are obvious, especially in man-made structures, you’ll see them a lot in architectural photography, from rows of windows on a skyscraper to the repeating arches of a bridge.

Repeating rows of small shrine-like boxes, each containing a brightly lit red-faced figure in a green robe, creating a striking visual pattern. The symmetry and repetition highlight the use of patterns in photography for creating rhythm and visual interest.
Repeating rows of small shrine boxes creates a striking visual pattern
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-250, 70mm, f/7.1, 1/40sec

Natural patterns, on the other hand, are often less precise but even more spectacular because they form organically.

You’ll find them in the delicate symmetry of flower petals, the spiralling cavities of fossils, the ripples in desert sand, or the waves rolling onto a shoreline. These patterns create rhythm and movement within an image, making them an excellent tool for composition.

Nature also lends itself well to textures, which can be just as powerful as patterns in a composition. Textures add depth and dimension, making an image feel more tangible. The rough bark of a tree, the cracked surface of parched earth, the intricate veins on a leaf, or the jagged edges of a rock face all create visual interest.

When shooting textures, light plays a crucial role—side lighting can enhance depth by casting shadows, while soft light can bring out fine details without harsh contrast. Whether you’re focusing on patterns or textures, both can turn a simple scene into a compelling composition.

Go out shooting and experiment with patterns and textures. Try filling the entire frame with the pattern or texture to make it the focal point of your shot. Getting in tight and eliminating background distractions helps emphasise the details, drawing the viewer’s eye to elements they might otherwise overlook. 

Repeating rows of intricately patterned red and blue carpets inside a mosque, creating a rich visual rhythm. The symmetrical floral designs and linear layout emphasize how patterns can bring structure and harmony to a composition.
Repeating rows of intricately patterned red and blue carpets create an appealing visual image.
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-500, 35mm, f/4, 1/60sec

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6. Closeup, Mid & Wide Shot

The best tip for good composition in photography is to capture a mix of closeups, mid, and wide shots. This approach helps tell a complete story by providing different perspectives—starting with a wide shot to establish the scene, moving to a mid shot to show the subject in its environment, and finishing with a closeup to highlight key details.

Wide Shot

I usually refer to this as the establishing shot. The goal is to capture as much of the environment as possible, setting the scene and providing context. A wide shot helps place the subject within its surroundings, giving a sense of scale and atmosphere.

For these shots, I often use a drone as it allows me to easily capture vast landscapes, sprawling cityscapes, or dramatic viewpoints that wouldn’t be possible from ground level.

A black and white portrait of a Laotian man covered in intricate Buddhist scripture tattoos, standing under a makeshift shelter. He wears glasses, smiles warmly, and holds a cigarette in one hand. The background includes potted plants, a table with various objects, and a tarp with text, creating a culturally rich portrait
This image shows a Laotian wood carver standing outside of his shop
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-1600, 70mm, f/8, 1/250sec

Mid Shot

A mid shot includes both the subject and some of its environment, bridging the gap between the wide and closeup shots. The aim is to show how the subject interacts with its surroundings, whether it’s a person standing in front of a towering mountain or an old wooden boat resting on a quiet lake.

This type of shot adds depth to your storytelling, giving viewers a better understanding of the relationship between the subject and its location.

A black and white photograph of a Laotian man covered in intricate Buddhist scripture tattoos, intently working on a wooden Buddha carving. He wears glasses, holds a cigarette in one hand, and is seated in a workshop surrounded by tools and shelves filled with fabric. The partially completed Buddha statue is secured in a vise, emphasizing the craftsmanship and cultural significance of the scene.
Mid shot showing the Laotian man sitting down at his workstation
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-1600, 70mm, f/8, 1/250sec

Closeup

Closeups focus on the finer details, whether it’s the intricate patterns and textures we discussed earlier or a portrait that captures emotion and expression. The goal is to remove distractions and draw attention solely to the subject.

Close-ups can be used to highlight character, texture, or emotion, anything that adds depth to the story you’re telling.

By capturing all three types of shots, you give yourself more variety and flexibility, ensuring you walk away with a well-rounded set of photographs that fully capture your subject.

Close-up black and white image of a Laotian man's torso and arm, highlighting detailed Buddhist scripture tattoos across his chest and stomach. The main tattoo depicts a seated figure surrounded by sacred text. His forearm muscle appears large and well-defined from years of labour, emphasising strength and craftsmanship.
Closeup of the man’s large forearm muscle, the result of long years of crafting
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-1600, 70mm, f/8, 1/250sec

7. Pay Attention to the Background

This is more of a reminder than a composition rule, but it’s crucial to practice. It’s easy to get so focused on your subject that you don’t notice what’s happening behind them. Then, when you review your shots later, you realise there’s a tree trunk perfectly positioned to look like it’s growing straight out of their head.

The background is just as important as the subject. Instead of only focusing on what’s in front of the lens, train yourself to see the entire frame. This can be easier in some situations than others, but it’s always worth your attention.

Clean, simple backgrounds help keep the focus on your subject without unnecessary distractions. On the other hand, cluttered or busy backgrounds can make your subject get lost in the scene.

That said, sometimes you want to include background elements to tell a story, like adding mountains behind a hiker to show the environment. The key is to be intentional, making sure the background complements the subject rather than competing with it.

A black-and-white street scene showing a young woman with an umbrella walking past a construction site where a man crouches among rubble and scrap metal. The messy background, including a toilet and tangled rebar, adds purposeful contrast and context, highlighting the divide between tourism and local labour.
Using the messy background of a building site where a local man builds a hotel. The image is used to show the divide between local labour and toruism
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-1250, 60mm, f/8, 1/320sec

8. Framing

Framing is a technique where you use an object in the foreground to frame the rest of the image, drawing attention to your subject and adding depth to the composition. 

It’s a more advanced technique because it requires some technical control over your camera settings. To pull it off effectively, you’ll need to use manual focus to ensure the camera doesn’t lock onto the frame itself, leaving the main subject blurry. 

Frames can be found everywhere with natural arches, doorways, overhanging branches or even gaps between buildings. The trick is simply remembering to look for them and incorporating them intentionally into your shot.

A rugged coastal scene at sunset, framed naturally by a jagged rock arch in the foreground. The use of the environment to frame the view draws attention to the dramatic seastacks, mossy rocks, and pastel sky beyond, adding depth and visual focus.
This one in a million rock formation creates a perfect frame for the jagged sea stacks behind it
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-800, 20mm, f/8, 1/3sec

9. Symmetry and Reflections

It’s well known that symmetry is naturally pleasing to the eye. In photography, a balanced composition creates a sense of harmony, and what better way to achieve balance than by capturing something perfectly symmetrical?

This is why certain patterns are so visually appealing, our brains are drawn to order and repetition.

A front-facing shot of a traditional Thai temple roof with intricate golden carvings and green tiled patterns, captured symmetrically from centre. The perfectly balanced design highlights symmetry in architectural photography, creating a visually harmonious and striking image.
This Thai temple roof shows how symmetry can create a harmonious and striking image
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-100, 52mm, f/5.6, 1/160sec

Finding symmetry in nature can be particularly rewarding, as it often feels more rare and unexpected. However, composing a truly symmetrical shot takes careful positioning. You’ll need to be standing exactly in the centre of the scene when taking the shot, this isn’t something you can simply crop and fix in editing.

One of the most effective ways to introduce symmetry into your photography is through reflections. These can be found in puddles, lakes, mirrors, glass surfaces, or even polished floors. When shooting reflections in water, you may need to use an ND filter, especially if you’re working with a moving body of water like a lake with small ripples.

The ND filter will help smooth out the surface, creating a cleaner, more defined reflection.

A serene temple is reflected in the still water below, creating a nearly perfect mirror image that emphasizes symmetry through reflection. This photo demonstrates how using water can add balance and visual interest in travel photography composition.
The water in front of this temple was used in a reflection photo which makes a symmetrical composition
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-100, 16mm, f/6.3, 1/30sec

💡Insider Tip: Many professional photographers use Photoshop’s mirror feature to create flawless reflections, particularly when weather conditions don’t cooperate. While the goal is usually to capture a reflection naturally, sometimes even an ND filter won’t be enough to get a perfectly smooth result. So if you ever need to enhance a reflection in post-processing, don’t hesitate, the pros do it too!


10. Foreground, Midground, and Background Subjects

This principle is especially important in landscape photography. Landscapes are often filled with multiple elements, so it’s essential to think about how each object contributes to the overall composition. Instead of just focusing on a single subject, consider how foreground, midground, and background elements work together to create depth and context.

A lush tropical waterfall cascades down moss-covered rocks into a calm pool, surrounded by dense green foliage. Sunlight filters through the trees, creating a sunburst effect in the upper right corner. The composition demonstrates foreground, midground, and background elements, with bright green plants in the foreground, the waterfall as the focal point in the midground, and a sunstar in the background.
The green plant in the foreground, waterfall in the mid and sunstar in the background work together to create an immersive composition
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-160, 26mm, f/14, 1.6sec

Take a waterfall, for example. While the waterfall itself might be the main subject, the surrounding environment plays a crucial role in making the image feel immersive. 

To create a well-composed shot, you could include a plant at the edge of the pool in the foreground, drawing the viewer’s eye into the scene. In the background, overhanging trees could help frame the waterfall, adding scale and atmosphere.

By layering different elements in the foreground, midground, and background, you create a sense of depth and storytelling. Rather than just documenting the subject, this approach helps convey the full experience of the place, making your photo more dynamic and interesting.

11. Shooting from Eye Level or a Low Perspective

Shooting from above is often a mistake in photography because it’s an easy default perspective that can make images look flat and uninteresting. 

Since we naturally view the world from a standing position, taking a photo from this angle rarely adds anything unique to the shot.

Take photographing a dog, for example. If you snap a picture while standing above it, you’ll likely end up with a very average photo where the dog’s face isn’t clearly visible. But if you drop down to eye level, you’ll capture a much more engaging shot, showing the dog’s expression and personality. 

A fluffy black Newfoundland dog sits in the snow with a dusting of snow on its face, looking directly at the camera. Another brown Newfoundland stands behind it, also with snow on its snout, both surrounded by a snowy outdoor setting. The image shows how taking a photo at eye level with your subject enhances the image
Taking photos at eye levels shows some of the subjects personality
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-640, 180mm, f/4, 1/200sec

Go even lower and shoot from the ground, looking up, and suddenly, the dog appears more grand and imposing, completely changing the feel of the image.

The concept of shooting at eye level is particularly important in travel photography portraits. It helps create a stronger connection between the subject and the viewer, making the image feel more personal and engaging. 

A friendly ferryman in Kuching, Sarawak, wearing a bright red shirt with "Marco" printed on it and a navy blue Rip Curl cap, sitting near a waterway with a calm smile and making eye contact with the camera. The blurred background shows a rustic outdoor setting with greenery and a building, adding context to the relaxed moment. This photo highlights how people are often more comfortable with being photographed when they are not busy, supporting the blog's focus on photographing people.
This very normal everyday scene is enhanced by the warm expression of the boatman
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-100, f/2.8, 1/640sec, 70mm

A low-down perspective, on the other hand, can shift the power dynamic of the image. It can make a subject appear more authoritative or respected. For instance, photographing an elder in a community from a slightly lower angle can subtly convey a sense of wisdom, experience and stature.

A elder village puppet maker wearing glasses and a white vest paints his puppets using a brush and paint pot. He is surrounded by the puppets that he makes on the woven bamboo walls and on the table. The photo shows how taking a photo from a low down makes the subject appear respected
The low down perspective of this shot helps to indicate the subject is a respected for his skills in the community
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-1600, 24mm, f/4, 1/100sec

After all, travel is about connecting with people, learning about different cultures, and realising that, at the core, we’re all quite similar. Looking directly into someone’s eyes through a portrait builds that sense of understanding and relatability.

That’s why we always encourage speaking to the people you photograph. Building a genuine connection not only makes your portraits more compelling but also enriches your travel experience.


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A collage of six vibrant photographs capturing cultural and natural beauty. The top left showcases lush green rice terraces bathed in golden sunlight, with a mountain in the background. The top right features a baby orangutan clinging to its mother against a blurred jungle backdrop. The middle left displays a collection of colorful traditional hand fans arranged in an intricate pattern. The middle right shows people waving massive, rainbow-colored kites under a clear blue sky. The bottom left highlights terraced rice fields with rich greenery, palm trees, and soft lighting. The bottom right portrays an elderly craftsman seated at a wooden table, surrounded by intricate shadow puppets, as his work casts a silhouette on the wall.

12. Use a Drone to Get a New Perspective

Nothing shakes up photography composition quite like a drone. Suddenly, you’re able to capture entirely unique photographs that simply aren’t possible with a handheld camera. 

Drones give travel photographers a fresh perspective, allowing them to shoot well-known monuments in new ways and capture vast landscapes from above.

When it comes to drone composition, the two most common approaches are shooting from a 45-degree downward angle or going for a top-down, vertical view. 

A breathtaking landscape photograph taken at sunrise, featuring lush green rice terraces and a quaint village nestled in a valley. The golden sunlight bathes the fields and gently diffuses through morning mist, creating a serene and ethereal atmosphere. In the background, two prominent mountains rise majestically, silhouetted against a softly lit sky. This image exemplifies the ideal conditions for landscape photography during sunrise or sunset, showcasing how the warm, diffused light enhances the depth, texture, and overall visual appeal of the scene, as explained in a blog about shutter speed.
Shooting down at a 45 degree angle while using a drone
Mavic 3 – Camera Settings – ISO-100, 12mm, f/9, 1/200sec

The 45-degree angle helps showcase depth and scale, making landscapes and cityscapes feel more immersive. 

The top-down view, on the other hand, creates striking, graphic compositions by flattening the scene and revealing patterns that aren’t obvious from the ground.

A top down aerial photo of a temple in Doi Mae Salong - Thailand. The top down view shows the symmetrical pattern of the building and creates a simple composition by cutting out background elements. It also shows a perspective of the temple that cannot be seen any other way
Top down drone photo that shows a temple in Thailand shows the interesting geometry of the grounds
Mavic 3 – Camera Settings – ISO100, 12mm, f/6.3, 1/120sec

One technique we use often (but isn’t talked about as much in drone composition tips) is using the drone for a slightly higher perspective rather than just extreme aerial shots. 

Sometimes, you might find that a railing or a distracting foreground element is ruining your composition at a photo spot. In these cases, sending the drone up just a metre or two can give you a cleaner, more refined shot that wouldn’t be possible with a handheld camera or even a tripod. 

It’s a subtle but powerful way to improve your photography composition and get the best angle for your shot.

We absolutely love the DJI Mavic 3 Pro. It’s a little large in size but the camera quality is outstanding. Due to its size its also great at flying in high winds, so you can happily send it in the air on top of a volcano!

Lush green rice field landscape with volcano and mountains in background taken with drone
Using a drone in this instance allowed me to gain just enough height to show the leading line created by the vegetation between the rice fields
Mavic 3 – Camera Settings – ISO-100, f/11, 1/40 sec, 12mm

13. Look for Contrasting Colours

One of the best tips for photography composition techniques is to use contrasting colours. Contrasting colours sit on opposite sides of the colour wheel, creating a visual pop that draws the viewer’s eye.

For example, red and green are complementary colours. Since Emma and I love photographing lush green environments, she always carries a red jacket or skirt to create contrast.

This small detail makes a huge difference, her red clothing stands out against the greenery, drawing attention to the subject without losing her in the rest of the environment.

Lush tropical scene featuring a cascading waterfall in Bali, Indonesia, surrounded by vibrant green foliage. In the foreground, large red tropical flowers create a striking contrast against the greenery and misty waterfall in the background.
The red flower in the foreground is a striking colour contrast against the lush greens
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-125, 20mm, f/8, 1.3sec

Finding natural colour contrasts while travelling can be tricky because they don’t always appear naturally. However, when you do come across them, they can make for striking images.

We’ve been lucky a few times, like when we saw giant red flowers in Bali growing out of the rice fields and near waterfalls, creating an incredible contrast between the rich red petals and the deep green foliage.

14. Negative space

Negative space in photography refers to the unoccupied areas of an image, the parts of the frame where there’s little detail or visual distraction. 

That doesn’t mean there’s nothing there, but rather that the space is filled with something consistent, like a blue sky, fluffy clouds, a calm body of water or a solid-coloured wall.

When used intentionally, negative space becomes a powerful compositional tool. It helps create balance by giving the subject room to breathe and drawing more focus on what’s important in the frame. 

The key is to consider how the negative space interacts with the occupied space. They don’t need to be symmetrical or evenly divided, but there should be a sense of visual harmony.

A diagram showing a mountain with an opaque mountain opposite to depict how negative space can be used in an image for impact
This diagram shows how negative space mirrors the mountain, which creates a balanced composition

Negative space can also evoke emotion. A subject surrounded by a wide expanse of sky or sea can create a feeling of solitude, for example. It’s a subtle way to shape the mood of your photo while keeping the composition clean and uncluttered.

15. Minimalist compositions

Speaking of clean and uncluttered compositions, let’s take a look at minimalist photography. A minimalist composition is all about simplicity, typically featuring a single subject surrounded by empty space. The goal is to remove anything that could distract from the subject, allowing it to fully hold the viewer’s attention.

That subject doesn’t always have to be one object. You might photograph two trees in a snowdrift or a couple holding hands on a vast beach. What defines a minimalist image is not the number of elements but the clarity of focus and the absence of clutter. Every part of the frame should serve a purpose or be intentionally left empty.

Minimalist photography is powerful because of its restraint. By stripping the scene down to just the essentials, you create space for the viewer to pause, reflect, and engage with the subject on a deeper level.

Black-and-white photo of a lighthouse with bold text reading "NO PASSAGE LANDWARD," captured in a minimalist style against a pale, empty sky that emphasizes the stark structure.
The minimalist style of the image emphasizes the stark structure of the lighthouse
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-100, 200mm, f/6.3, 1/250sec

16. Tell a Story with Your Photo

Ok, so I’ve saved the best for last. If you’re a travel photographer, telling a story should be at the heart of every photo you take. You’re trying to show the world what you see, but remember when you experience something, you’re not just seeing it. You’re experiencing the atmosphere around you through your senses of smell, hearing, and touch.

But through photography, you only have one sense to work with: sight. So how do you convey everything else?

You translate those other senses into visual cues. If you’re walking through a bustling market and the buttery smell of popcorn hits you, include the popcorn stand in your shot. Let the viewer see what you’re smelling. 

A street food vendor grilling skewers at a bustling food stall in Chinatown, Bangkok. The vendor, wearing a face mask, gloves, and a cap, tends to the sizzling skewers under bright lights, surrounded by colorful signage and a busy crowd in the background. This image is used to demonstrate travel street photography, capturing the vibrant and authentic atmosphere of local street food culture.
China Town Bangkok – A street vendor preparing food that showing smells from the market
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-400, 25mm, f/2.8, 1/160sec

If you’re on a chaotic street corner filled with honking horns and speeding scooters, capture the blur of movement or the flow of traffic to give a sense of sound and energy.

This is a great way to shift your mindset as a photographer. Instead of focusing only on what you see, start tuning into what you feel. Your photographs will become more immersive, more layered, and much more powerful.

Two motorbike riders speed through a busy city street at night, captured with motion blur to emphasize movement and urban chaos. Neon lights, blurred cars, and streaks of headlights add to the sense of fast-paced traffic in a vibrant downtown setting.
China Town Bangkok – Two motorbikes whizz by in this motion blur shot that shows the fast-paced setting of the market
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-250, 35mm, f/2.8, 1/25sec

Storytelling can also come through in portraiture. Say you’re photographing a local artisan, of course, you’ll want to show their finished work. But go deeper. Include close-ups of their hands as they work, the materials they use or the space they create in.

These details tell a richer, more intimate story of the person behind the craft.

The most important question you can ask yourself before pressing the shutter is – what can I include in this photo to show the viewer everything I’m sensing right now? That’s where the storytelling really begins.

A young girl playing a keyboard on a busy street in Chinatown, Bangkok, surrounded by colorful market bags, utility boxes covered in stickers, and a glowing emergency phone booth. The nighttime setting highlights the vibrancy of the street scene, blending her music with the bustling environment. This image is used to demonstrate travel street photography, capturing a raw and authentic moment of urban culture and creativity.
China Town Bangkok – A girl plays keyboard showing the kind of sounds that can be heard at the market
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-1600, 40mm, f/2.8, 1/160sec

17. What is the Golden Ratio in Photography?

The golden ratio is a mathematical ratio often found in nature, art, and architecture that’s believed to create naturally pleasing compositions. In photography, it’s used to guide the placement of elements within a frame, creating a spiral or curve that leads the viewer’s eye through the image in a harmonious way.

That said, I’ve never once taken a photo in my career while consciously thinking, “I’m going to use the golden ratio for this shot.” I still struggle to apply it intentionally in my own photography. If I’ve ever followed it, it’s been purely instinctive and only realised after the fact.

A lush tropical waterfall cascades down a moss-covered cliff surrounded by dense greenery, with vibrant red flowers in the foreground. A white golden ratio spiral overlay emphasizes the natural composition, guiding the eye from the floral foreground to the waterfall in the background.
The flower in the foreground and the vegetation follow the line of the spiral which ends with the waterfall being the subject
Sony A7R3 – Camera Settings – ISO-200, 20mm, f/4.0, 2.0sec

In most composition blogs I looked at while researching this post, I didn’t come across any convincing examples of the golden spiral being used effectively. More often than not, it looked like a spiral had just been slapped on top of a photo, with the writer then having to justify why it worked.

Unless you’ve already mastered the more practical photography composition techniques, like the rule of thirds, framing and leading lines, don’t focus on the golden ratio. It’s an interesting concept but not something that needs to play a central role in your travel photography.

Next Steps: Use the Rules of composition and Then Learn When to Break Them

I get it, learning composition can feel frustrating.

I’ve been there too.

Unlike shutter speed or ISO, there’s no switch that suddenly makes you good at it. A lot of it is subjective, and even the pros break the so-called “rules” all the time.

But here’s the thing, understanding these techniques gives you a foundation. It helps you avoid common mistakes and gives you something solid to build on. Perfect scenes where every rule fits neatly? They’re rare.

But knowing what to look for means you’re more likely to notice those opportunities and compose better pictures because of it.

So don’t stress about ticking every box.

Use the rules when they make sense, break them when they don’t and keep shooting.


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Steffan

I’m Steffan, the founder of InWanderment, a travel and photography blog dedicated to sharing my experiences and insights from around the world.

I’m a self-taught photographer with a passion for helping others explore the outdoors through photography. My goal is to make capturing the beauty of nature feel accessible to everyone — whether you’re shooting with a professional camera or just your phone.

Now back in the UK after 18 months of travel across Asia, I’m focusing on creating new content, editing thousands of photos, and sharing everything I’ve learned along the way to inspire others to get outside and start shooting.

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Steffan, a bearded man with long, curly hair tied back, stands on a white wooden bridge holding a professional camera with a large lens. He wears a blue and green insulated jacket, a yellow bandana around his neck, and carries a black backpack with photography gear. Behind him, colorful houses in shades of pink, green, and blue are built on a hillside, with bright natural light casting a warm glow on the scene.
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I'm Steffan

Photographer, nature lover, and avid traveller!

I love sharing beautiful places, unique travel spots, and tips to help you take better photos!

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